As well as increasing the energy efficiency of your property, they also act as a form of soundproofing and add another layer of security to your property. They're a great long-term investment that will not only increase the comfort of your living but also add value to your home. However, this isn't inclusive of the windows, frames or any other essential materials.
So, the question we need to be asking ourselves is 'how much do double glazed windows cost? As well as this, you would need to factor in the cost of the frame, which varies considerably depending on the material you choose. If you're looking to cut costs, consider retrofit glazing or secondary glazing for your windows instead.
The costs of installing double glazing in your home can quickly add up. If you need a helping hand with your finances, here are a few places to look. If you're considering the DIY route with window installation, or you're just interested in knowing how the process works, here are the basic steps you'll need to take to fit double glazed windows.
For most residential projects, double glazed windows can be installed in less than a day. For larger or more complex jobs that require scaffolding structures, you may need to allow up to a week for the installation process to be complete.
Before you choose an installer for the job, it's worth taking the time to consider exactly what type of double glazing you want for your home. Once you've figured out the type of glazing and the frames that you want, you can set about collecting itemised quotes from local companies. Quotes will allow you to compare different companies and the services they provide. Don't forget to check out testimonials and reviews from previous customers to make sure you hire a company that you can trust.
Most professional glaziers will be able to install your double glazed windows. If you've chosen timber frames for your windows, you'll need to search for someone with a carpentry background and licenses. As well as using the powers of Google search, you can also post your jobs on websites like Airtasker to receive quotes from local companies in your area. Sometimes, it's hard to know who to hire to do the best job. That's why it's essential to ask tradespeople several questions before settling on one.
Knowledge is key when it comes to haggling. Entering into negotiations with a good idea of what you should be charged for the job will give you more bargaining power. To do this, collect and compare as many quotes as possible from different companies.
Don't forget to be respectful in your negotiations, as some tradesmen will simply walk away from a job if they feel they are being unfairly undervalued. One of the key benefits of double-glazed windows is sound insulation.
Double glazing does an effective job of blocking out sound, depending on what window openings you go for and how well they seal. You can still hear what's going on outside, but it's not enough to wake you. If you're not in a noisy area, you may be wondering why that would be a selling point. But there are two additional reasons to consider; firstly, will it always be quiet where you live? What if the neighbours renovate? Or the council decides to rezone nearby land or build some infrastructure?
What about the noise in your house? Like your booming home theatre? Maybe you want to keep the noise inside from getting out as much as the other way. There are very few places in Australia that don't suffer from extremes in temperature, be it predominantly cold or hot. I'll touch on the types of double glazing in a second, but the theory of having two panels of glass separated by a gas usually argon chamber is to prevent the transfer of something outside from getting inside, or vice versa.
With double glazing, hot or cold hair needs to hit the first panel, transfer through, make it across the gas, and then transfer again. All while the reverse temperature is trying to do the same thing.
For example, the hot summer air is trying to get in while your air-conditioned house air is trying to get out. I've found double-glazing to work incredibly well. Every window and glass door in our home is double-glazed and the temperature in the house does a great job of self-regulating. There is plenty more that goes into that — I have good insulation crammed in every wall and in the roof, plus blinds to block out direct sunlight — but it requires a sustained day of extreme temperatures before I need to resort to the air-conditioner downstairs.
Upstairs, where the sun directly hits the roof and to which hot air rises, I do need to cool the rooms before sleep on hot nights, but then the double-glazed windows do a good job of keeping that cool air inside the home. So, I usually only run the air-con for 30 minutes before bed and then maybe again in the middle of the night for 30 minutes on belting hot or frigid evenings.
Most window companies will install their windows for you either directly or through a preferred trade at an additional cost. I didn't go this route; but I wish I had. We had the windows delivered and then installed them ourselves with the help of the carpenters that were working on the framing and external cladding. While we did get the job done, it cost me more in their labour than it would have to get the professionals to do it simply because each manufacturer has their own quirks.
Plus, these windows are bloody heavy. Our biggest windows were approximately 2 x 1. Then it must be fixed into place while you're holding it.
Pull beading away. If possible, leave the top section of beading until last and then support the glass as you remove it. Glass units fitted in wooden windows are normally sealed in with some form of putty-based fixing compound. This will need to be cut away before the glass can be removed. Lay out the beading in the shape of the window so it can be refitted easily later on. On wooden frames, remove all traces of excess fixing compound with a scraper and then thoroughly clean out the window rebate with a soft brush.
Trial fit the replacement double glazed unit in the window aperture. Pull the glass out and check for any obstructions before trying again. Windows in plastic frames are sandwiched between a pair of gaskets. This double-sided PVC foam tape sticks to the frame and glass and makes it virtually impossible for the window to be removed without breaking it. You can also use high-security glazing tape as above for externally glazed wooden frames. Be sure to seal the ends of the sill and frame assembly to prevent moisture tracking along the edge of the sill and into the brickwork.
You can do this using a window sealant. They are not very expensive. Carefully position the new frame into the aperture. You may need some help guiding the window into place as they are bulky and awkward to position. Once you have centred the window frame, insert packers underneath to level it and maintain the 5mm extension gap. Check the frame is both level and plum and drill at least two fixing holes on all four sides of the frame.
Drill holes should be approximately mm from top and corners and around mm centres in between. Suitable fixings for this job are nylon sleeve frame anchors or self-tapping masonry screws. The glass will also be cut to allow room for the heads of the frame fixing screws at the side of it. When you insert the glass you will need to space it out so the borders are equidistant in the frame. In the case of a "barred" unit, which is a sealed unit with inbuilt glazing bars to make it look as if it is lots of small sections, you will need to make sure the glazing bars look absolutely horizontal and vertical.
This can also be done using the spacers. The beads, if installed when you take delivery of the frame, can be removed using a sharp scraper or chisel, this will give you a clear view of the rebates that will receive the glass. The frame will come separately to the sill and the sill will probably have to be cut to length on site as normally you get a little extra to play with.
The sill in most cases will also come with some end caps which need to be glued on to each end of the sill with a special PVC superglue. Occationally the sill and window will come with the glue but in most instances you will have to purchase this seperatley.
The glue can be purchased from most window and glazing suppliers. The sill sits on the top of the outside skin of the wall, on a mastic, or sand and cement bed. A bead of silicone is applied to the top of the sill and the frame then sits on that. The back edge of the sill will have a little upstand against which the window will butt and this is where you put the silicone. Do not seal the gap which will be between the bottom front edge of the window frame and the top of the sill.
There are drainage holes in the bottom of the frame and any water that does get into the frame can run out of these holes and run off the sill. The fixing holes are drilled once the beads are out and the screw heads are covered by the sealed unit when it is placed in the frame. Put the frame in and square it up within the opening using the plastic spacers. You can ask to have a variety of spacers sent with the windows you order.
Choose a solid area of wall and drill through the frame and wall.
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