Lay the backerboard into the wet mortar and tap it down with a hammer and 2x4 block. Next, cover all the seams between the backerboard sheets with adhesive-backed mesh tape , then spread a thin layer of mortar over the taped joints. Allow the taped seams to cure overnight before proceeding.
Electric heat mats are typically laid in a bed of mortar, covered with more mortar, and then the tiles are immediately set in place. For this installation, however, I added a step to improve the performance of the radiant-floor heating: The heat mat was set in mortar and then allowed to cure overnight.
The next morning, I poured self-leveling underlayment over the mat, which is simply very thin, watery cement. Once the underlayment dried, the tiles were mortared down. Now this extra step takes a bit more time, but the extra cement layer provided by the self-leveling underlayment creates a perfectly smooth, level surface for laying the tile and provides a bit more thermal mass for radiating heat.
Here are the steps to installing the heat mat:. Lay the mat down into the mortar, being careful not to crush the electrical cables woven into the flexible mat. Use a rubber grout float to press the heat mat down into the mortar. Be sure to squeeze out all air bubbles and smooth away any wrinkles.
Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article Steps. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Author Info Last Updated: March 11, All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Determine room size in square feet by multiplying length by width in feet. Determine window type and number. Older single pane windows transmit lose heat more quickly than newer double or triple glazed windows which are far better at isolating different air temperatures on either side.
Determine number of walls of the space that are exterior walls. Determine if the exterior walls and space directly above and below the room are insulated. A space below an attic with insulated floors or located above a basement are considered insulated. Calculate a baseline for total watts of electric heat required to heat the space.
Most spaces require 10 watts per square foot of space for homes built since the s. A 12 foot 3. Assuming a ceiling height less than 8 feet 2. Standard density heat is rated at watts per foot. There is one other type of heat called "high density" HD. HD heat has more than the watts per foot that the standard density heat has, but does not heat quicker nor is operated for any less. HD merely provides more heat with a smaller footprint. Determine how much if any more watts of heat over the baseline watts to install.
All of the considerations above windows type and number, insulation, etc. It is important to note that adding additional heaters will not increase the cost of operation. Additional heaters allow the room to maintain desired temperature during the colder days, as opposed to having the minimum heat or baseline installed. If only the baseline calculated amount of heat were installed, it would not be able to replace the heat as quickly as it was lost due to lack of insulation, single pane windows, etc.
A room that ideally requires watts of heat might need as much as watts if it suffers from all the issues listed above. This applies to ALL types of heat and cooling in the summer for that matter , regardless of fuel type or technology. Insulation is inexpensive over the long run.
The heat can be installed one of two ways. In the example room, install 1 watt heater or install 2 or more heaters totaling watts. The latter method can be employed for rooms at the corners of a building - having 2 exterior walls. Typically, heaters are installed below windows, where most of the heat loss occurs.
Adding more watts of heat will allow the room to reach the desired temperature faster than if no additional watts of heat were installed. Now what? Scott Cook says: October 3, at pm. Hi David, The thermostats typically last about years on average. So it sounds like your thermostat has reached the end of its life and needs to be replaced.
Rob C says: October 9, at am. Scott Cook says: October 11, at pm. Michael Precure says: October 23, at pm. Hi Michael, The error 7 code means that the thermostat has reached the end of its life and needs to be replaced. Thank you, Michael! Steve says: November 20, at pm. Steve, Check the sensor connection at the back of the thermostat and make sure it is secure. Also, make sure the sensor wires are in the correct terminals. If you continue to have trouble, contact the manufacturer to troubleshoot.
Bruce Townsend says: December 9, at pm. What now? If all else fails you want to contact the manufacturer to troubleshoot the system with them. Peter says: March 8, at pm. Jhon says: March 11, at am.
Hi Jhon, You could route the sensor probe down the conduit but it may not be that effective if the probe is not between two heating wires. So you can try it and see how well the system functions that way.
Consider changing the thermostat setting to Room Mode and see how well that works for you. Deidre says: March 21, at pm. Hi Deidre, What you need to do is get an ohm meter and check the resistance of the mat that is not working. If the resistance falls within the range listed then it is functioning. If the resistance is off then it indicates there is something wrong with the mat.
Also check the connections behind the stat and make sure nothing came loose. Bill Shedoudy says: April 5, at am. Hi Bill, It is very rare for the actual in floor sensor to just stop working unless it was damaged. The thermostat is more likely the issue here and replacing that would likely fix your problem. You want to get the sensor between two heating wires so you get the most accurate reading.
Matt says: April 8, at pm. If I have to I can cut out more drywall. Hi Matt, Thank you for contacting us! And just make sure the sensor probe sits in the middle of two heating wires, and is away from any other heat source sunny spots, air vent, baseboard, etc Do that and the sensor should be in ideal conditions to read the floor temperature.
Thank you, Matt! Tom Jervis says: June 21, at pm. Hi Tom, The idea behind having two sensor in the floor is that you have a backup already down there in case the first one fails.
Jason McQuade says: August 26, at pm. David Inzerillo says: November 14, at pm. James says: August 29, at pm. Can I use one heat probe for 2mats. Hi James, You need a floor sensor for each thermostat you have. If the two mats are controlled by the same thermostat, you can use the sensor for both mats. Jimi says: October 28, at pm. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile.
Measure ad performance. Select basic ads. Create a personalised ads profile. Select personalised ads. Apply market research to generate audience insights. Measure content performance. Develop and improve products. List of Partners vendors. Project Overview. Tip Make sure that the floor is capable of properly supporting a grouted tile floor.
Electric Floor Heating Mat Systems A similar type of radiant floor heating is a mat system, where the cables are already spaced and attached to a flexible mat.
Featured Video. Materials Floor heating cables Floor heating cable straps Radiant heating underlayment Electric floor heating thermostat Cement backer board Industrial-grade hot glue High-temperature tape Thinset mortar. Secure Subfloor Check the subfloor to ensure it's level.
Warning Floor heating cables should never be cut. Tip Consider purchasing a radiant floor heating installation monitor. Related Topics.
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